Method

1. Put the bread and garlic into a food processor and switch on, adding lemon juice until you have a smooth paste.

2. Then add the cod’s roe, including the skin, which I think contains a slot of the flavour as it has been indirect contact with the smoke in the kiln.

3. Keep blitzing until the mixture is smooth and creamy then add the rapeseed oil in a gentle stream until you have a thick buttery consistency.

4. Slowly add the olive oil, you may find it becomes quite stiff and cloying but don’t worry – then add the water slowly until you get the right consistency, if you add too much and mixture becomes sloppy, simply drizzle in more oil until you get it right.

5. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or coriander and put on thin crisp slices of toasted ciabatta, drizzle with a little rapeseed oil.